Can Mexico follow in Peru´s Footsteps & Preserve Their Sportfishing Industry?

For fish farms to be a viable alternative to NOM-029 Mexico must stop much of the commercial fishing that is currently destroying the Sea of Cortez and it´s vast number of inhabitants. Peru dealt with a similar threat to it´s sportfishing industry and ocean environs, and has now taken the necessary steps to sustain the industry and support efforts at ocean conservation.

In conjunction with The Billfish Foundation Peru recently issued a presidential order that decommercializes the harvest and sale of marlins and sailfish. For more infomation read the online article: TBF Assists a Nation's President Set a New Standard for Billfish Conservation.

Can Mexico follow suit? Stop commercial fishing of sought-after sushi plate succulents and provide the supply by sustainable fish farms instead?

Mexico could partner with Japan - the main purchasers of fish from the seas of Baja - and make it illegal for Japanese businesses to buy commercially-caught fish from the Sea of Cortez. Japan could assist in the development of fish farms to meet their demand for supply, in partnership with Mexico. Japan and Mexico are familiar business partners already - with joint-ownership of the Exportadora de Sal (ESSA saltworks) outside of Guerrero Negro by Mitsubishi and Mexican government.

Fish farms are not a problem-free solution, but a viable alternative to meet the demand for fish - demand that is not going to go away but is predicted to increase annually. At least fish farms could target the intended species for sale such as Bluefin Tuna, rather than destructive fishing practices that incidentally kill thousands of forms of sea life in great numbers in pursuit of it.

Peru is setting an example for all of the world, that Mexico and other countries should strive to imitate.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Sustainable Fish Farms in Baja

Mexico could be a world leader in sustainable fish farms, attracting scientists and researchers around the world in collaborative projects. Instead of a `Nautical Highway` currently being promoted by the Baja California State Tourism Secretariat to give wealthy yacht-owners stop-overs on their way up and down the peninsula and create a 80-mile overland road linking ocean (at Santa Rosalillita) to sea (at Bahia de los Angeles) -- how about a Fish Farm Industry that is world-reknown?

A good background article on the proposed Nautical Highway is this one by National Geographic: Can Mexico's Wild Baja California Endure New Marinas?

Creating sustainable fish farms would protect the vast natural wealth of the Peninsula, instead of pandering to the wealthy. Instead of 22 ports, how about 10 ports (or none) and 12 Fish Farms? Spend some of the 222 million starter-funds on a project that will help to preserve the environment of the Baja California Peninsula, not denegrate it.

In 2004, 43% of the global fish supply came from farmed sources, and the percentage increases annually. An opportunity for Mexican commercial and local fisherman, with support from government, to enter a market that will make good profit, supply demand coming from Japan & elsewhere, and keep the fish flowing for future generations of Baja inhabitants, sportfishing enthusiasts and tourists. Without the fish, what will Baja become?

Promote and create Fish Farms before it becomes a necessity -- due to destructive fishing practices decimating fish populations. Create new business opportunities for Mexican entreprenuers while preserving the already world-reknown sportfishing industry that attacts millions of visitors annually. Yachters like to fish too.

From the Marine Conservation Society (UK) website here is an article entitled Principles and Criteria for Sustainable Fish Farming.

A major problem with fish farming - even closed-systems not using wild-caught fish for stock - is the food source they must be given to survive, can cause negative secondary effects for that marine species. Sacrificing a non-edible species, for farmed species raised for human consumption is not a sustainable, non-destructive environmental solution. It also affects other species, such as the wildlife that relys on that food source for survival, birds, etc. Scientists from the Centre for Environment, Fisheries and Aquaculture Science (Cefas) have made inroads to providing a solution - New breakthrough in sustainable fish farming and others are studying the issue as well.

One of many offering consulting services for all phases of fish farming development, management and production is Fisheries Technology Associates, Inc. located in Colorado.

The resources available on the Web are almost endless, and the Peninsula is home to The University of Baja California, College of Marine Science and the Institute for Oceanographic Investigation. Campuses are located in Mexicali (main campus), Ensenada, Tijuana, San Felipe, Tecate, San Quintin and La Paz.

For next weeks blog, I will see if I can complete an interview with a local Baja Oceanographer or marine scientist. Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Fish Farming in Baja - A Solution to NOM-029?

Provide mouth-watering fresh, fish flesh for sushi lovers abroad and in the U.S., and profit-making ventures for commercial and local Baja business interests, while perserving the sanctity of the Sea of Cortez at the same time? Sounds almost too good to be true!

But it's not. Fish farming is a viable - and maybe the only - alternative to destructive fishing practices that are decimating many species of fish that call the Sea of Cortez home. Tuna farming in Baja does currently exist, but the goal by environmental orgranizations and scientists is to push for sustainable, ecologically-safe fish farms.

According to the 2005 article, Sustainability Assessment of Capture-Based Tuna Aquaculture in Mexico, written by the MSATAM Team (Marine Science Assessment of Tuna Aquaculture in Mexico), "... tuna farming in large nearshore net pens has expanded rapidly along the Baja Pacific coast north and south of the Tijuana-Ensenada Corridor. Mexican tuna are now estimated to comprise 10% of global tuna production (35,000 tons)."

The article also states, "Tuna ranching/farming is one of the fastest growing forms of aquaculture in the world today."

Farmed tuna - that use wild-caught fish (primarily Pacific Bluefin Tuna) that are kept in pens and fed small fish such as sardines - are sought-after for sushi due to the higher oil content of the fish. High-quality seems to fetch a high price. According to the article above, "Farm gate prices for Mexican farmed tuna are currently reported to be $12,000/ton.".

This article, Say Hola to Tuna From Mexico! describes the fish farming process in detail. The fish farms in Mexico should be more accurately called 'ranches' or 'capture-based tuna farming' because wild tuna are used for both stock and feeds. It states, "A true 'farm' would be one in which fish are raised from egg to adult stages in captivity...".

Tuna farms that use wild stock can devastate the habitat they come from. In the U.S., capture fisheries have decimated tuna stock in the Atlantic. Researchers and environmental organizations are trying to help prevent that from happening in the Pacific as well.

(From the article) Barry A. Costa-Pierce, a Professor of Fisheries and Aquaculture at the University of Rhode Island, states, "It is urgent that we develop an internationally credible scientific basis for sustainable tuna farming that could decrease pressure on tuna stocks, while also being environmentally and socially sustainable."

These efforts would also provide a viable solution to NOM-029, by giving commercial (and local) fishermen an alternative to over-fishing the Sea of Cortez. Fish farms could provide a means for profit-making and meet product demand for Baja fish coming from Japan (the majority of exports), the U.S. and elsewhere.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Help Save the Sea of Cortez & Overturn NOM-029

The fight to stop over-fishing in the Sea of Cortez has an extensive history. In October 2002 the Mexican Senate, with support from then president Vicente Fox, cancelled NOM-029-PESCA-2006, also known as Shark NORMA. Sea Watch and other environmental organizations had spent over $60,000 U.S to fight it.

Their victory turned into defeat May of 2007 when president Felipe Calderon passed a new NOM-029 into law. The reason? Commercial interests wanting the right to harvest more fish and make more money. Much of the demand for Baja fish comes overseas from Japan, where bluefin tuna can sell for as much as $45 a pound.

For a brief snapshot of the economic realities at play read the 2004 article Tuna Barons by The Fisherman's Voice.

A good article describing the basics of NOM-029 and the danger it poses to the health of all organisims that call the Sea of Cortez home is Marine Life Threatened in Sea of Cortez at ESPN.com

The Billfish Foundation, and their partners in Mexico, have retained an attorney and begun a series of legal procedures to fight for the modification of NOM-029 and to stop destructive fishing practices. The process and an outline of current actions taken by TBF are described in their online article, Mexican Senate Confronts Shark Norma Negotiations.

Help stop destructive fishing practices and protect the future of the Sea of Cortez.

The International Game Fishing Association (IGFA) and other conservation organizations such as Sea Watch and The Billfish Foundation ask that you demand that NOM-029 be suspended until the following modifications are included:

** Prohibit commercial fishing in the 50 mile protected zones
** Address bycatch so that game fish may not be incidentally targeted and sold
** Regionalize fishing permits to evenly distribute fishing effort
** Vigilant enforcement of commercial vessels by the Armada de Mexico
** Stock assessment and catch and effort data be utilized in making management decisions

This information is included in the online article New Regulations in Mexico Threaten Marine Life in Sea of Cortez on the IGFA website. They have posted a link to an automated email system. Click on each politician's name, type in your full name and click 'submit'.

A pre-formed letter outlining the reasons NOM-029 should be overturned or amended is then sent to the politician in your name. A simple and easy way to have your opinion heard.

I will contact the above organizations by email, and ask to be informed if any new developments occur so that I can post a blog entry about it. Every little bit counts.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

NOM-029 & Saving the Sea of Cortez

Vicente Fox may be gone from the political scene but hopefully some of his legacy will be revived. Five months after taking office, his presidential successor Felipe Calderon signed NOM-029 into law, a bill that many say legalizes destructive fishing practices in the Sea of Cortez.

Called a conservation catastrophe by The Billfish Foundation, NOM-029-PESCA-2006 is a measure that allows commercial longlining in coastal waters of the Sea of Cortez. Prior to NOM-029, commercial vessels were not allowed to fish for or possess marlin, sailfish, dorado and other protected species within 50 miles of the coastline. Only recreational anglers were allowed to fish in these protected zones.

The bill allows long-line fishing from more than 3,000 skiffs, with 350-hook lines, as close as 10 miles from the shore. Medium-size vessels, up to 233 of them with 1,000-hook lines, and enter the Sea of Cortez for massive catches (and bycatches) as close as 15 miles.

It seems ironic that a bill intending, supposedly, to protect a select few species, allows for activities that are decimating other protected populations of fish in the Sea of Cortez. And decimating they are. Sea Watch observed, filmed, and did the math.

Here is one days worth of destruction by a few commercial fishermen, totaled up (by Sea Watch): “Two boats caught around 400 dorado – 110 hooks and 53 dorado on each of them. Each boat had 5 km of longline with 600 to 700 baited hooks in the water. Multiply these numbers by the numbers of boats fishing and you suddenly have 5,000 to 10,000 small dorado being taken from Baja waters on any given day.”

More information and photographs are posted at the following locations on the Sea Watch website:

** SHARK NORMA 029 CONTINUES TO KILL PROTECTED SPECIES

** SHARK NORMA 029 STILL ALLOWS DRIFT GILL NETS CLOSE TO SHORE AND WHALES ARE EVEN DYING FROM INGESTING THE NETS

NOM-029 may currently be law, but the battle to save the marine life of the Sea of Cortez is hardly over. Laws, especially when counter-productive, can be overturned or amended. The following three paragraphs - quoted from a May, 2007 article in the Los Angeles Times – illustrate both sides of the issue, and why NOM-029 is a misguided attempt to protect species such as Blue and Hammerhead Sharks and the Giant Ray in the Sea of Cortez.

Paragraph #1 “NOM-029 limits fishing pressure through permits and imposes gear and area restrictions designed to ensure sustainability. It bans the capture of certain sharks and rays; phases out of drift gill-nets; and outlaws finning, or slicing fins from sharks and throwing their writhing bodies overboard.”

** Why GreenPeace currently supports the bill **

Paragraphs #2 & #3 “But it does not adequately guard against exploitation of "bycatch" species such as dorado, or mahi-mahi, marlin and sailfish – species that gave rise to sportfishing-related tourism and supposedly are off-limits to commercial fishermen.”

“Long-line hooks do not discriminate. Marlin, sailfish and dorado fetch a higher price than sharks, which are already depleted. So it's reasonable to assume the bycatch species are really what the fishermen are after.”

** Why opponents are doggedly fighting it **

Next weeks blog entry - what you can do to help these and other organizations fighting to overturn NOM-029 and save the Sea of Cortez and all its inhabitants.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Cardon Cacti & Saguaro Cacti - One in the Same?

Soaking up information on all things Baja like a beach-marooned sea sponge after a summer's drought, I believed everything I was told when first moving to the Peninsula. Pretty much. Don't even think of asking me about 'whale turds'!

Case in Point (another case): Cardon cactus is the same as saguaro found in the U.S., they are just called by different names. No, they are not the same but different, distinct species I now know. Here's the skivy.

The cardon cactus (Pachycereus pringlei) is the world's largest cactus. They are one of over 1000 species of cacti found on the Peninsula (sources vary on this number, some saying 800 species, others 1200, so I took the middle road...). They have been measured at nearly 21 meters (70 feet) high and can weigh up to 25 tons. Cardon cacti have been estimated to live over 3000 years.

The cardon is native to Baja where it exists in large numbers. A small number of these cacti can also be found in Sonora, Mexico on the mainland, a part of the Sonoran Desert region that encompasses areas in the U.S. and Mexico.

The saguaro, on the other hand, is not native to the Baja California Peninsula and is rarely found living there. A small number of saguaro cacti are found in Sonora Mexico on the mainland also, but they are primarily located in the southwest desert of the U.S. in states such as New Mexico, Arizona and California.

Cardon cacti and the saguaro are similar in that they are both columnar cacti, with vertical framework that allows their trunks to expand to store large amounts of water when it is available, then contract when water is scarce. This is why they look similar, and many think they are one in the same.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Free Baja Travel Guide!

I got the crazy idea to write a relocation guide for the Baja California Peninsula last summer while living in Morelia, Mexico for a month. My son was in an arts school ($75 for the month paid for dance, music, drawing and theater classes, very cool & why we were there) and I was sitting around the main square in cafe´s, sipping espresso with little to do. Woe is me and why not write a book? Or something like that.

Three months later Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula was born and set into the eversphere (made available as an eBook through a website).

I really sunk my teeth into the project, grinding out chapters on real estate, medical insurance, environmental issues, tons of topics. Mid-way through I decided that the book would not be a valuable resource on Baja without a basic travel guide included. Driving the Peninsula, taking a ferry to the mainland, riding a bus, all these topics needed to be covered. So I did.

And afterwards, put together a separate document that could easily be printed-out for travelers to take on the road. Hence, Viva La Baja! Travel Guide was created and is now available to you for free (hey, if you read this blog, you should get something out of it!).

The guide includes: driving directions from Tijuana to Los Cabos; information about towns with a link to a website with more info; side trips to Bahia de los Angeles, Magdalena Bay and Cabo Pulmo; mileage between towns; car insurance & where to get a Mexican auto insurance policy; green angels & emergency assistance; riding a bus and ferry locations & schedules.

Also included is information on crime & safety with contact information for U.S. & Canadian embassies and where to report a crime.

Email info@vivalabajba.com and I will send you a copy.

Buen Viaje, Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Mail in the Baja & How to Receive a Package

The Mexican mail burro has grown a set of wings. O.K., maybe not but he does have a bit more air under his feet. Receiving mail while living in Baja is slow, but not overly-so. Similar to other international destinations outside of the U.S. or Canada, two to three weeks seems to be the average time frame for delivery of a package.

If the package is later than two weeks it could be held-up in customs. One package of ours sent from Seattle went to Mexico City first, and took over a month to clear customs before being shipped back to Baja. During the extended wait, I was clueless to the cause of the delay, but became quite the familiar face at our local postal post, with weekly, then twice-weekly inquires "es mi caja aqui?" (is my package here?).

Here is one online service - USA2Me - to obtain a U.S. address for items to be sent to and then forwarded to Baja. After an initial $15 set-up fee, the monthly charge for basic service is only $5.

A better way may be to set-up this service in person while north of the border. If like me, you will have many interactions with this service provider, and knowing who is handling your personal items personally can be comforting when you have to call or email to figure out the cause of a delay or lost package.

The biggest drawback to buying new items in the U.S.or Canada and having them shipped is custom fees. You can be charged up to 38 percent of the declared value of your package. If you use an express mailing service to expedite delivery (5-10 days) such as DHL or Federal Express, you may be charged a fee of approximately $15 (even if the contents are not dutiable) to cover the services of the customs broker.

If you do not want to purchase a mailbox at your local Baja post office, you can have mail sent to you general delivery or 'Lista de Correos' (in Spanish). Your address will look something like this:

Your Name
Lista de Correos
Your Baja town, zip code, Baja California Sur or Norte
(city, postal code, state)
Mexico

Packages can be shipped from Baja town to Baja town via bus. Take the package to your local bus station and request it to be delivered to you chosen address... but make sure you have someone on the receiving end (bus stop at end destination) to pick it up.

Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Movies in the Baja & Where to See a Good Flick

The most recent movie we saw in a movie theater -- un-researched & spur of the moment -- was "The Woman of My Nightmares" (title of the movie in Latin America, "The Heartbreak Kid" in the U.S.). Ben Stiller (big like) plus deviated septum chick from Hell added up to the movie of our nightmares. And I thought 'SuperBad' was bad.

The first for my son and maybe second for me, we walked out mid-way through, not caring that the plot seemed to be picking up with actress Michelle Monaghan entering the scene. This review from eFilmCritic.com wasn't too favorable either. Mail-order DVD's and computer downloads here I come. Love the big-screen experience, but home-made popcorn is better for you anyways.

If living in Baja (no Blockbusters in site) and wanting the home movie experience as well, DVD's can be mail-ordered from these locations: Movies Unlimited, Buy.com, or DVD Empire. And of course there is always Amazon.com and BestBuy.com, though not the lowest cost options.

Another option is online DVD Clubs (join and get five DVDs for 49 cents or less each...) such as Columbia House and Disney.

Whether they will ship to Mexico or not is a good blog topic for another day. My work-around is to have a U.S. address at a mailbox company in the states, have my online purchases shipped there, and then re-packaged and shipped to my Baja address.

If you are the owner of a large gigabyte hard-drive computer, and wouldn't mind watching the flick on your computer screen, you can avoid shipping costs and hassles all together by downloading films from one of these online locations: MovieFlix.com or Apple.

MovieFlix.com (Windows & Mac) For you oldies out there, they give free downloads to ancient... I mean golden oldies television series and movies such as "Dragnet", "American Empire", "A Christmas Carol" and others. With a $9.95 monthly subscription, you have thousands more (and more current) options.

New releases can be downloaded to your computer for a pay-per-view cost ($3-4) from Apple iTunes. The film will stay on your computer for 30 days, or until is viewed, whichever comes first. The file may take hours to download, but just select and load before going to bed. In the morning you should be ready to roll.

If you want the public theater experience, venues can be found in most large towns & cities on the Peninsula such as Tijuana, Rosarito Beach (Playas de Rosarito), Ensenada, La Paz and Los Cabos.

For all you high-class folks out there, there is a planetarium movie theatre in Tijuana. There are four Omni Theaters located in Mexico.

Here's to no more nightmares, Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Love in the Baja: Strip Clubs, Cantinas & Where are all the Singles?

You've found your life partner, man/woman of your dreams, your soul mate. Congrats! I am sure your Valentine's Day will be filled with heart-felt exchanges and sweet somethings. Now what about the rest of us?

True love may be hard to find, but for all the effort you may as well shoot for the stars. If in Baja Norte and looking for love - friend and family resources, and dates with available prospects, already taxed to the max - skip the brothels and head to Ensenada for a night out at the Octopus Discoteque or Carajo.

If a bit on the lazy side, this site - One Love Net - has two available hotties for gals living North. Yep, that's right TWO. Yahoooooo. Guys have more online dating possibilities at Amigos.com. For those in Baja Sur, online dating and chat services are available through Cafe Tropic.

Or how about a cooking class, and play the odds you won't be the only one unattached. For Baja Norte, an elegant option is the Rancho La Puerta in Tecate. They offer arts and craft classes, writing seminars, and have themed fitness 'specialty weeks' in yoga, Pilates, hiking or meditation.

If your'e a southerner (Baja Sur inhabitant) guy or gal, there is Cook With Us in Todos Santos. Or you can throw in a week of Spanish immersion lessons along with three nights of Mexican cooking classes with this program offered through Sea & Adventures Inc. in La Paz.

To take a trip to Baja geared for those seeking a match made in paradise, Singles Travel Company organizes fishing excursions to La Paz for singles. You may get lucky - catch a big one and find a new love all in one shot. In April, they offer a 3-day Baja Mexico cruise aboard the Carnival cruise ship Paradise, visiting Ensenada and surrounds.

Singles Travel International hosts trips to Baja for those looking for love as well.

If you are fortunate enough to be in a loving, committed relationship already, and want to keep that love strong, you may enjoy the book "Together Forever - A Relationship Book for Couples" by Suzanne Marie Bandick. Not pop pychology, just well-intentioned advice and musings from someone lucky enough to find love early and make it last.

Happy hunting and Valentine's Day! Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

Brrrrr + Sun = Winter in Baja!

Last year we arrived back in our small town of Mulege on Dec 31st after two months in drizzly Seattle. Tropical Storm John (Sept 2006) had devastated the town and left many, including my son and I, temporarily homeless.

From summer sauna our small (I mean shoe-box size) casita had turned into a winter ice-box. Freezing with a capital 'F'. We slept that first night with a full set of clothes on, winter coats included.

The next morning it took five hours or so of daylight to remind me why I loved the place so much - brilliant sun high in the sky causing me to sweat while walking into town with only a T-shirt on.

Mulege is considered Central Baja (casually, not officially) and is approximately 176 miles from the 48th parallel point at Guerrero Negro -- the official designation separating Baja California Norte (North from GN to Tijuana) from Baja California Sur (South from GN to Cabo San Lucas). This middle of Baja terrain - San Ignacio, Santa Rosalia, Mulege, Loreto, Ciudad Constitution - has freezing temperatures in winter, scorching & humid highs during the summer months.

The southern-end of the Peninsula - La Paz to Los Cabos (Cabo San Lucas & San Jose del Cabo) has more warmth in the winter (including warmer nights), but similar oppressively hot (to most sane folks) summers, often continuing through September.

To steer clear of these temperature highs and lows, you can remain in Northern Baja - the area from Tijuana to Ensenada approximately - where the climate is more Mediterranean. This area has hot, dry summers and wet, warm winters with temperatures ranging from 85 to 50 degrees F, on average. Head into the desert extremes further south and you drop down to the 40s, and climb up into the 90s to 100s (La Paz can have temps up to 115 degrees!).

Today, Ensenada is experiencing temperatures ranging from the mid 50s degrees F to 46 degrees F. Mulege has a high of 70 degrees F, and lows in the 50s. La Paz is heating up to 76, and dropping to the low 60s. MSN weather covers most Baja cities and towns.

This Web page - Weather Mexico - is a good read on weather patterns and temps throughout all areas of Mexico, including the Baja California Peninsula.

In solidarity with all current Baja winter-inhabitants, we are freezing our buns off in Xela, Guatemala. The city is located in a dry, mountainous area with chill-you-to-the-bones nights and mornings, followed by sparkling sunny and warm afternoons. Much like many areas of Baja. Nights drop to the low 30s F and you wake up not wanting to get out from underneath the mother-lode of blankets on top of you. Heat... ha, ha! No such thing as heaters here... at least where we have stayed.

Can't wait to be Baja-bound, in the heat or cold! Molly, author of Viva La Baja! Relocation Guide to the Baja California Peninsula